Neo-canteens and trendy eating houses
When it comes to a true sense of togetherness, Brussels is definitely the place to be. It has always been a welcoming and cosmopolitan city, open to the world and to its many visitors. By the early 1990s, these are precisely the values that drive Alain Coumont when he opens his first Le Pain Quotidien on Rue Antoine Dansaert in the very heart of the city.
For 24 years now, people have been queuing up to sit down — generally with total strangers — at the huge communal table of reclaimed wood and savour the simplicity of good food and good company. This communal table is indeed the centrepiece of all Le Pain Quotidien outlets all over the world, in countries as different as the United States, Japan, Brazil, India or Turkey, to name just of few.
Ten years later, in 2001, it is up to another innovative concept to see the light of day: Exki opening its first outlet at Porte de Namur. Here too you eat fast but healthy food with as many organic and local products as possibly can and particular focus on ethically and ecologically sourced salads and soups which gained the brand its reputation. Exki is currently established in five countries but remains closely tied to the capital city.
These two iconic brands have paved the way and literally set the trend. As a result, you can now enjoy this healthy and fresh dining packed full of flavours almost everywhere in Brussels. A common concern shared by all these so-called neo-canteens is the determination to offer premium quality food at an affordable price in a warm and homely environment. Moreover, many of these eateries favour organic and locally produced ingredients and are generally fervent followers of the slow food movement.
We name just a few — the list is long and by no means exhaustive — and to start with, two places that firmly uphold the principle so dear to Le Pain Quotidien of joining others at social friendly dining tables:
Les Filles - Plaisirs Culinaires: although their story started a few years ago, the “girls” only recently relocated in the fashionable Dansaert district. At large wooden tables, they invite guests to communal family-style dining and serve a single fair-price lunch/dinner menu at midday and in the evening. The place oozes with love and passion for food, and urges you to (re)discover great tasting seasonal food. Simply put, a must visit!
Le Garage à Manger: when he is not touring around the numerous Brussels markets with his trendy food truck El Camion, Joël Geismar officiates with unmitigated pleasure in the kitchen of an incredibly luminous and exceptionally tasty Garage à Manger. In a matter of months, the establishment has become a very popular rendezvous, and deservedly so.
Much like Les Filles, Garage à Manger proposes a short menu with savoury dishes prepared on the spot, allowing you to enjoy it fully and preventing it from going to waste as well as offering prices that are little short of a miracle.
Mer du Nord/Noordzee: once a very well-kept secret, now one of the city’s best-known fish shops turned street food outlet on the edge of Place Sainte-Catherine, Mer du Nord/Noordzee is all the rage and just opened a fish-bar in the heart of the European district. Here you share the typically Brussels sense of togetherness standing at a table on the pavement to eat a nifty selection of first-class, as fresh as it gets, fishy snacks such as razor-shells cooked “à la plancha” right in front of you, whelks, prawn croquettes... or whatever grabs your fancy.
God Save The Cream: as everyone knows by now, unless of course you have spent the last twenty years stuck on board a submarine – whether yellow or not – British cuisine has come on leaps and bounds. The very pleasant God Save The Cream is a shining example of the best products England has to offer... on Belgian soil. You cannot but fall in love with the cosy place once lured inside by its promise of “serious coffee/sincere food/truly homemade”.
Chez Josy: organic canteens are popping up like mushrooms all over the capital and so much the better. And there is no denying that Chez Josy is one of those diners you can only warmly recommend. Another fine example is Henri & Agnès that recently set shop in the Schuman neighbourhood.
These modern, often organic, always hip and trendy canteens are in plentiful supply in the city centre but also in other parts of town, for instance the Châtelain district. On your wanderings through Brussels, you might get lucky enough to come across and have a fabulous lunch or dinner at Jour de Fête, Ici, Delicatessen, Yeti, Les Super Filles du Tram, Green Mango or Charlotte Ses Tartines.
Numerous delicious foodie places are dedicated to world cuisine such as Mo Mo and its Tibetan dumplings, noodle or ramen bars such as Kokuban, Au Bon Bol or Umamìdo, or the trail-blazing but still topical tiny little Vini Divini where the chef cooks on the stove at the bar and which just opened its “negozio”: in a nutshell, a Lilliputian place where divine Italian wines and cuisine perfectly complement each other.
Atypical, unique and unexpected to say the least, Cook & Book located in the south of Brussels welcomes both bookworms and food-lovers in nine different cleverly linked shops, each with its own atmosphere and matching lunch/dinner space. Not surprisingly ranked in the top 20 of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, the store is a real crowd-puller, well worth a visit.
Let us also mention, since there is not a dearth of canteen-like eating spots in Brussels, eateries that focus on one main, or even single, product such as JAT (bagels and coffee bar), Bia Mara (fish & chips), Hop Dog (hotdogs), Burger Republic (hamburgers), Oups (soups) or the latest addition in town: Pistolet Original.
Pistolet Original is a new deli focusing on the genuine good old “pistolet”, a round crunchy bun that is so typically iconic of Brussels. Pistolet Original resolutely strikes a nostalgic chord revisiting the emblematic stuffed “pistolets” of the old days with la crème de la crème of Belgian products all locally sourced such as home-made chicken curry, meat delicatessen from butcher Dierendonck or hand-peeled grey shrimps. This is what we call love at first bite!
Le Pain Quotidien: about ten outlets in Brussels. List available on www.lepainquotidien.be
Exki: about twenty outlets in Brussels. List available on www.exki.be
Les Filles - Plaisirs Culinaires
Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains 46 Oude Graanmarkt, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 534 04 83
Le Garage à Manger
Rue Washingtonstraat 185, 1050 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 880 67 74
Mer du Nord/Noordzee
Rue Sainte-Catherine 45 Sint-Katelijnestraat, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2/513 11 92
Rue du Luxembourg 62-64 Luxemburgstraat, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 280 05 00
God Save The Cream
Rue de Stassartstraat 131, 1050 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 503 07 75
Place Keymplein 15, 1170 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 679 01 53
Henri & Agnès
Rue Véronèse 48 Veronesestraat, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)471 22 28 02
Jour de Fête
Boulevard Anspachlaan 181, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 512 38 00
Rue Darwinstraat 35, 1050 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 343 88 57
Rue Sainte-Catherine 17-19 Sint-Katelijnestraat, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 324 78 79
Rue du Bon Secours 4-6 Bijstandstraat, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 502 24 26
Les Super Filles du Tram
Rue Lesbroussartstraat 22, 1050 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 648 46 60
+ Café Gudule (same menu, at midday on weekdays)
Rue du Gentilhomme 11-13 Jonkersstraat, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 503 10 15
Chaussée de Vleurgatsesteenweg 142, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 649 90 13
Charlotte Ses Tartines
Rue du Bailli 17 Baljuwstraat, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 649 15 42
Rue Defacqzstraat 27, 1050 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 522 09 68
Rue Vilain XIIII-straat 53-55, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 611 06 22
Au Bon Bol
Rue Paul Devauxstraat 9, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 513 16 88
Chaussée de Vleurgatsesteenweg 1, 1050 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 640 40 57 (no reservations)
Rue du Berger 24 Herdersstraat, 1050 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 510 83 40
Cook & Book
Avenue Paul Hymanslaan 251, 1200 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 761 26 00
Rue de Namur 28 Naamsestraat, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 503 03 32
Rue Marché au Poulet 41 Kippenmarkt, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 502 00 61
Rue Neuve 123 Nieuwstraat, 1000 Brussels (eat-in)
Rue des Fripiers 21 Kleermakersstraat, 1000 Brussels (take-away)
Chaussée de Vleurgatsesteenweg 7, 1050 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 640 10 14
Rue Lesbroussartstraat 13, 1050 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 646 88 41
Rue Joseph Stevensstraat 24-26, 1000 Brussels
T.: +32 (0)2 880 80 98